Where: New Orleans, Louisiana
When: May 7-10, 2011
With: Dave
New Orleans was a place that I was always interested in going to, but it wasn't a top priority for me. However, it is one of Dave's favorite places in the world. So when we knew our move to England was a definite and US travel would soon be on a temporary hiatus, we made it a priority before we left.
I didn't quite understand what it was about New Orleans that Dave loved so much. But when we arrived, I picked up on it almost immediately. We checked into our hotel on the edge of the French Quarter and then entered into the happiest world of food, music and drinking I had ever experienced. (Food and music will be covered in more depth in later posts.)
The French Quarter of New Orleans is the oldest section of this city, founded in 1718. While the French laid out the plan for the city (hence the name), a couple of fires in the late 1700s destroyed most of the buildings that were originally here. By then, the Spanish were in charge, and set strict fire-conscious building codes for the new architecture. New buildings had to be constructed out of stucco (more fire resistant) and close to the street. They were then painted in pastels as was fashionable at the time, and Spanish-influenced balconies were erected and decorated with beautifully intricate wrought-iron designs. Since historical buildings were officially protected as of the end of the 1800s, we can still enjoy this beautiful architecture to this day.
When: May 7-10, 2011
With: Dave
New Orleans was a place that I was always interested in going to, but it wasn't a top priority for me. However, it is one of Dave's favorite places in the world. So when we knew our move to England was a definite and US travel would soon be on a temporary hiatus, we made it a priority before we left.
I didn't quite understand what it was about New Orleans that Dave loved so much. But when we arrived, I picked up on it almost immediately. We checked into our hotel on the edge of the French Quarter and then entered into the happiest world of food, music and drinking I had ever experienced. (Food and music will be covered in more depth in later posts.)
The French Quarter of New Orleans is the oldest section of this city, founded in 1718. While the French laid out the plan for the city (hence the name), a couple of fires in the late 1700s destroyed most of the buildings that were originally here. By then, the Spanish were in charge, and set strict fire-conscious building codes for the new architecture. New buildings had to be constructed out of stucco (more fire resistant) and close to the street. They were then painted in pastels as was fashionable at the time, and Spanish-influenced balconies were erected and decorated with beautifully intricate wrought-iron designs. Since historical buildings were officially protected as of the end of the 1800s, we can still enjoy this beautiful architecture to this day.
The French Quarter would be where we spent a lot of our time in New Orleans. On the night we arrived, we entered and began our stroll down the famous bar-lined drag, Bourbon Street. Music pumped from out of open doors and people milled about with drinks in hand, hopping from place to place. I can't imagine what Mardi Gras would be like because this was a jam-packed party and it was a Thursday.
We stopped into our first bar, Tropical Isle, to sample the legendary Hand Grenade, a mix of gin, rum, grain alcohol and melon liqueur, served in a fun souvenir cup. It was the perfect cocktail to get right into the party and sip while we strolled along Bourbon Street.
Bourbon Street by night: lots of neon and balconies.
After sipping some cocktails, we did the next logical thing. Stopped into a restaurant for a plate of oysters. Duh.
The night was a blur of music and drinks and food and I was immediately swept up in it and in love with it all.
Over the next few days, we hit some other important spots in the French Quarter.
We went to Jackson Square for some views of the St. Louis Cathedral, one of the most iconic sites in New Orleans. Horse drawn carriages line up in droves here to take people for a ride around the French Quarter, and the sound of jazz music is everywhere as street performers play their instruments at each corner.
Just off Jackson Square sits one of the most famous coffee shops in the country, Cafe du Monde, known for its chicory coffee and beignets, deep fried dough covered in powdered sugar. The line to get in here wraps around the block, but it is well worth the wait for this perfection of a meal. Just don't sneeze or there will be powdered sugar everywhere.
Another staple of New Orleans drinking is Pat O'Brien's. It's super kitschy inside, but serves the Hurricane, a drink that is not to be missed.
Trying the hurricane.
Across from Pat O'Briens is a pretty famous voodoo shop, reminding us of the spooky religion that runs deep in New Orleans culture. We didn't go in, but there were definitely a lot of these shops around.
Another activity was a visit to the French Market, where tons of stalls sell local crafts and food, all in an outdoor, but covered, environment. Of course, there was live music throughout to enhance the shopping experience.
The French Quarter also takes up a beautiful swath of the Mississippi River banks. There's tons of art sculptures and even a riverboat tour.
We enjoyed this sculpture best, with Hand Grenades in tow.
Each day I was there, I just kept admiring the architecture.
One night, a band showed up and started playing on a street corner. People were just hanging out on the streets listening, and soon, a couple just started dancing. It was an amazing thing to experience.
For our last night in New Orleans, Dave splurged so we could stay at one of New Orleans more famous and traditonal hotels, the Soniat House. This hotel took three Creole townhouses built in 1830, combined them, and restored them to the way they would have looked in the 19th century. I love the southern architectural combo of refined and tropical.
Obvioulsy, the hotel had beautiful porches overlooking the street below and their wrought iron decor was on point.
In the morning, breakfast was served in the courtyard and provided an elegant way to start the day.
Aside from those main French Quarter highlights, we drank a lot...
...we ate a lot of amazing seafood...
... and we listened to a lot of live music.
However, the thing I think I enjoyed the most about New Orleans was the overall relaxed, fun vibe it gave off. Everyone just seemed to be enjoying themselves, from the welcoming locals to the partying tourists, and it was infectious.
We had such an amazing few days here that I was depressed to leave. I called it that I could totally retire here. While New Orleans is a big place, the French Quarter is the heart, and it was about as fun as a place can get. We'll go back any chance we get!
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