Sunday, February 17, 2013

Bo-Kaap (former Malay Quarter)

Where: Cape Town, South Africa
When: December 10, 2012
With: Dave and Nic

Hidden away down an unassuming street in Cape Town lies the neighborhood of Bo-Kaap. Founded by the Malaysian and Indonesian slaves brought here by the Dutch in the 1600s, it's the heart of the Cape Malay culture in South Africa. The food, music, and culture that got its start here is still alive and well, and one of the most distinctively unique to come out of this country. 

It may be hard to find, but you'll know when you get there. Nestled into the side of Table Mountain, the couple of cobblestonevstreets that make up this neighborhood have a distinct feature: all the buildings are painted with a bright shock of pastel paint. 

While the neatly painted houses would make you believe this to be a fairly well-to-do neighborhood, it's quite the opposite. This is actually a recently gentrified township, and is starting to lose some of its charm as wealthier buyers move into the area, drawn by the cobblestone lanes and colorful façades. 


The Malays were the first culture to bring Islam to South Africa, as evidenced by the well painted Nurul Islam Mosque nestled in the streets. 

The easiest aspect of the Cape Malay culture to enjoy is the food. The closest I can equate it to is Indian, with lots of curries and spices, but a little bit sweeter (though it can be just as spicy). After spending 20 minutes wandering around this neighborhood and trying to capture the colors of the houses in the fading afternoon light, we ended up at a fantastic little restaurant called the Biesmelliah. It was small, completely authentic, and had the most friendly staff ever. We asked them to just give us a sampling of their food, and in return, we had a feast. It was amazing. 

Definitely a fun little neighborhood to wander around in, experience a unique culture, and grab some dinner.

For the rest of our trip in South Africa, click here. 

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