Where: Berlin, Germany
When: August 3, 2013
With: Dave
Despite being one of the oldest cities in the world, the events of the last 100 years have left little to show of Berlin's history (by comparison to other European cities). The bombings during World War II left much of the city in rubble. After the war, the country of Germany was divided in two between the victors: the US, UK, and France got the west and the Soviet Union got the east. Berlin was the dividing line, and as a result, it was a city split in two. For nearly 40 years, a concrete wall, the "Iron Curtain", kept Berlin two separate cities. And while West Berlin thrived on capitalism, communist East Berlin stagnated until 1991 when the Cold War ended and the wall was torn down.
Since the city has been reunited, it has been trying to rebuild itself. Nowhere is this growth more prominent than in the urban hotspot of the Mitte district. The first and most central borough of Berlin, Mitte has seen Berlin through it all and is helping define and establish a new culture for the city.
The most iconic structure in the Mitte district has also seen the city through its many ups and downs: the Brandenburg gate. Built in 1791, it was named the "Gate of Peace", though this proved to be an ironic choice based on the events of its 200 year history. Napoleon passed through here on a victory march after conquering Prussia. The Nazis used it as one of their symbols as they rose to power. It was badly damaged during the war, requiring extensive restoration afterwards. And finally, it was incorporated into the Berlin Wall and the site of Ronald Reagan's famous speech where he asked "Mr. Gorbachev, tear down this wall!" I'd say that this gate has seen a lot (though, I'm searching for the "peace" aspect...)
Underneath this memorial was an amazing information center. This place had a unique way of telling a few stories of the millions of people who lost their lives during the Holocaust. From a room that showcased letters written by people sentenced to die, to family biographies that included stories, photos and each family member's final fate, it was an amazingly well done exhibit. At the end of the tour sat a dark room where the names of Holocaust victims were read out, one at a time, with as much of a story about their life and death as was available.
This may paint the Mitte district as a bleak neighborhood full of memorials. However, this is only one aspect (albeit a very important one). A vibrant scene exists here as well, as the artistic youth of Berlin tries to reinvent this historic neighborhood.
The Gendarmenmarkt is a plaza that hosts one of Berlin's largest Christmas markets in the winter time. In the summer, it is filled with cafes and street performers playing music for your entertainment. It is flanked on either side by matching domed buildings: the German cathedral and the French cathedral.
In the center is the Konzerthaus.
This river Spree has ferry boats running up and down providing river tours on a regular basis. This river also carves out the famous Museum Island (though more on this in another post).
Hidden behind an unassuming entrance lies the maze of Hackesche Hรถfe. This series of plazas interconnected by alleyways that cut underneath ivy covered buildings is filled with shops and cafes. We took a lot of wrong turns, but each dead end was a beautiful find.
To cap off our adventures in the Mitte district, we joined in the festivities in Alexanderplatz. Depsite having been redeveloped during the Cold War, it is now back to its original reputation as a hotspot of Berlin nightlife. In what looked to be a giant beer festival in the midst of the summer heat, this plaza was filled with wooden benches, vendors selling every wurst you could imagine, games and performances. And of course, beer.
Between World War II and the Cold War, Berlin showcased just what a tumultuous and horrific history this city has experienced in the last 100 years. However, the Mitte District appears to encompass all that Berlin is attempting to achieve as it rebuilds itself into one of Europe's cultural hotspots.
When: August 3, 2013
With: Dave
Despite being one of the oldest cities in the world, the events of the last 100 years have left little to show of Berlin's history (by comparison to other European cities). The bombings during World War II left much of the city in rubble. After the war, the country of Germany was divided in two between the victors: the US, UK, and France got the west and the Soviet Union got the east. Berlin was the dividing line, and as a result, it was a city split in two. For nearly 40 years, a concrete wall, the "Iron Curtain", kept Berlin two separate cities. And while West Berlin thrived on capitalism, communist East Berlin stagnated until 1991 when the Cold War ended and the wall was torn down.
Since the city has been reunited, it has been trying to rebuild itself. Nowhere is this growth more prominent than in the urban hotspot of the Mitte district. The first and most central borough of Berlin, Mitte has seen Berlin through it all and is helping define and establish a new culture for the city.
The most iconic structure in the Mitte district has also seen the city through its many ups and downs: the Brandenburg gate. Built in 1791, it was named the "Gate of Peace", though this proved to be an ironic choice based on the events of its 200 year history. Napoleon passed through here on a victory march after conquering Prussia. The Nazis used it as one of their symbols as they rose to power. It was badly damaged during the war, requiring extensive restoration afterwards. And finally, it was incorporated into the Berlin Wall and the site of Ronald Reagan's famous speech where he asked "Mr. Gorbachev, tear down this wall!" I'd say that this gate has seen a lot (though, I'm searching for the "peace" aspect...)
When it was originally built, only the royal family could pass through the center arch. During the Cold War, it served as a checkpoint for Berliners hoping to pass between the eastern and western halves of the city. Now, they let any fools walk on through.
The sculpture at the top of the gate is called the Quadriga. It is a chariot pulled by four horses with the Roman goddess of victory at the reins. Napoleon liked this statue so much, he brought it back to France with him. However, after Napoleon was defeated in 1814, the Prussian army took it back and restored it in its rightful place.
Just behind the gate sits the Unter den Linden, once the main east-west axis of the city.
A few blocks from the Brandenberg gate sits an incredibly moving memorial. It is a tribute to the six million "Murdered Jews of Europe". Built in 2005 and taking up an entire street block, these 2,711 grey, concrete slabs of similar widths but differing heights are a disorienting maze. No matter where you stand in the memorial, you feel like you're standing at the lowest point.
An odd and controversial twist in this memorial's construction is that the company who was tasked with coating these slabs in an anti-graffiti substance was also the company that, back during the war, produced the infamous Zylon-B gas that killed so many millions of people.
Shockingly, the Jewish Memorial has stirred up quite the debate. Several other groups also targeted by the Nazis were upset at their lack of representation in the memorial. Therefore, several other memorials have cropped up around the area commemorating those groups. Sitting not too far away from the Jewish memorial was a reflecting pool to honor the 500,000 Sinti and Roma gypsies that were murdered during the Holocaust. Their persecution and execution actually began a year before the Jews were pursued.
This may paint the Mitte district as a bleak neighborhood full of memorials. However, this is only one aspect (albeit a very important one). A vibrant scene exists here as well, as the artistic youth of Berlin tries to reinvent this historic neighborhood.
The Gendarmenmarkt is a plaza that hosts one of Berlin's largest Christmas markets in the winter time. In the summer, it is filled with cafes and street performers playing music for your entertainment. It is flanked on either side by matching domed buildings: the German cathedral and the French cathedral.
In the center is the Konzerthaus.
Mitte is also home to Nikolaiviertel, a reconstructed quarter of old Berlin that sits along the river through the city.
This river Spree has ferry boats running up and down providing river tours on a regular basis. This river also carves out the famous Museum Island (though more on this in another post).
Statues crop up no matter where you look and add a funky vibe to the city. They also add a bit of fun to the otherwise rigid construction leftover from the Communist era.
To cap off our adventures in the Mitte district, we joined in the festivities in Alexanderplatz. Depsite having been redeveloped during the Cold War, it is now back to its original reputation as a hotspot of Berlin nightlife. In what looked to be a giant beer festival in the midst of the summer heat, this plaza was filled with wooden benches, vendors selling every wurst you could imagine, games and performances. And of course, beer.
Between World War II and the Cold War, Berlin showcased just what a tumultuous and horrific history this city has experienced in the last 100 years. However, the Mitte District appears to encompass all that Berlin is attempting to achieve as it rebuilds itself into one of Europe's cultural hotspots.
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