492. The Golden Temple

Where: Amritsar, India
When: May 31, 2013
With: Dave, Ralf, Mireya, Joaquin, Stef, and Ankita

After three days of partying it up Indian wedding style, it was time to continue our adventure through India. Next stop was Amritsar. 

Despite having organised a car to drive us that could accommodate seven people plus luggage, a small RAV 4 showed up. While fighting with the driver that it was physically impossible to fit us all in such a tiny vehicle, we realized that there may be a slight cultural misunderstanding. As evidenced by the average number of passengers we had seen in cars on the road thus far, we realised that the Indians had a very different concept of space and safety while driving.  We refused to even attempt to squish and ended up having the wedding taxi driver agree to the 5-hour trip to the other side of the country. The original driver was cheeky enough to insist that we still pay him for having come out to get us.

Now, our vehicle of choice was incredibly large and spacious (tall enough to stand!) , but with no air conditioning and no seatbelts. This felt like a true adventure, bumping along the road with the windows open and dirt flying all around us. After a couple hours of napping and refreshing ourselves from the wedding, we became restless for entertainment and car games ensued. As we left the Himalayas through small villages and highways, we reverted back to our childhood for entertainment. 20 questions and Name That Tune occupied us for hours, and the variety of nationalities in the car made it all the more entertaining (two Americans, two Germans, two Mexicans and an Indian - it sounds like the start of a joke). The hands-down highlight was hearing Ralf and Stef sing the German version of the Gummy Bears theme song.

After several wrong turns and many failed attempts at locating a shop that sold beer, night was falling and we'd been driving for 7 hours. The villages outside still looked small and roadside fires lit up the road. As we entered the Punjabi state, more and more locals were sporting the traditional turban headwear of the Sikh hindus. It felt mildly ominous with all the unfamiliarity around us as the night grew darker and we were still a decent way from the city limits.

Just as I started to feel uneasy, we entered the city and were at our hotel within minutes (thanks to Ralf's preparedness and iPhone data roaming, since our driver had no idea where to go). We were greeted by the most pleasant surprise upon arriving - our hotel, the Golden Tulip, was beautiful and warm and welcoming. Cold towels were provided and we proceeded to wipe an inch's worth of grime off our sweaty faces (Joaquin jokingly insisting that he had showered just that morning as his towel turned brown with dirt). The staff was SO incredibly helpful and friendly, it was just the thing we needed after our long journey.

The main sight in Amritsar is the Golden Temple. This is the most holy site in the world for Sikh Hindus. We were advised that we should see it both at night and in the day as the experiences would be completely unique and amazing in their own way. Since it doesn't ever close, we piled right back into a taxi and headed off to see the temple.

Upon arriving, we learned the temples two dress code requirements: cover your head and remove your shoes. I got to try my hand at tying my shawl around my head, while everyone else purchased souvenir bandanas. We left our shoes in a locker and silently padded along the cool marble that led into the complex. On the way, a small pool of water crossed our path where we were encouraged to step in to clean our feet before continuing. After following the long pathway, we came upon a tall arch at the top of a flight of stairs. Upon reaching the bottom, I saw one of the most strikingly beautiful place I have ever been.

A large square pool of water filled the center of the complex. Lining the edges of the water were bright, white buildings, gently lit and reflecting off the water, giving a soft glow to the entire place. Sitting in the middle of the water, attached only by a long causeway, sat the Golden Temple, shining as if on its own accord like the sun and capturing all of your attention for a few breath-taking moments.

The temple was one of the prettiest manmade sights I've ever seen. It just glowed. Referred to as the Harmandir Sahib in Punjabi, it was built in the 16th century to house the holy scripture of the Sikh's. The building has four doors, meant to symbolise openness to all people and religions, and I feel like while many religions say that, this was the first time I actually felt it. Everyone was so friendly, happy, and kind in the complex. One old man with a cane and a big, bushy white beard and mustache that matched the white turban on his head thought I was Punjabi (I really wrapped my scarf well, clearly). He told me in Hindu that I needed to get all my friends to stay over for the night in the complex because it was such a beautiful experience (thankfully, Ankita translated for me).

Despite being well past midnight, the entire complex was buzzing with people. Open all night long, people are welcome to sleep, eat and stay here as part of their pilgramage to this holy sight.  People slept on the marble floor, some along the water's edge and some curled up along the buildings. The whispers of the visitors and the gentle lapping of the water seemed to be swallowed up by the warm air and soft marble, causing a soothing hum that was incredibly calming. I easily could have curled up and gone to sleep there too.

The water itself also holds a holy meaning. The name Amritsar translates to the "pool of the nectar of immortality" and the city was named after this body of water. While several people prayed alongside the water, several more were swimming around in it.

We sat on the edge of the water to quietly take it all in. While taking a feet photo, someone came up and yelled at us: it turns out, you are never meant to point your feet toward the temple. It made sense when we realised that everyone sleeping was head first toward the temple. 

As if this couldn't be anymore peaceful, the moon started to rise behind the temple as we were heading out. 

After our long drive, this was much needed solace for us all. 

The next day, Mireya, Joaquin, Stef and Ankita headed out, so Ralf, Dave and I were left to explore the city the following day. First, we got a view of Amritsar by day. While it looked similar to the other places we'd visited, it had a happier, friendlier vibe - either that, or I was just so zenned out, my perspective totally changed. 

Abandoning our shoes and donning our headgear like old pros, we approached the entrance of the complex again. The biggest difference from the night before? The ground was hot as hell! Woven mats lined the pathway to the entrance and was regularly doused with water to help relieve the burn on your feet. 

Prior to entering, we washed up in a basin that was provided. 

We entered the complex from a different doorway this time to be greeted by this wonderful place again. Everything we'd heard was completely true - it was completely different by day! Now the marble was reflecting clean and white, the water glowed a turquoise blue, and the temple shone as bright as ever.

There were understandably a ton more people around at this point in the day. Many arrive at sunrise for the daily ceremony when the holy scripture is brought to the Golden Temple from its night time storage spot. There were still many people snoozing the day away and even more bathing in the nectar. However, the peace of the night had nevertheless carried into daytime and the vibe was still happy and friendly. 

Loving this just as much as the night before. 

During the day, the temple is open for visitors of all religions. You join a massive crowd on the long gangplank across the water and slowly make your way towards the temple. Prayers are recited over speakers above your head and as you approach the temple, the people around you begin to join in, chanting more fervently as they get closer to the door. The energy is electrifying.

Entering the temple, people bow their heads to the threshold of the door. Inside, a cordoned off central area contains the holy men that recite prayers and watch over the scriptures all day. You can explore the two stories, observing the ornate decor and the scene around you. 

Outside, people drink from the water after emerging. I get the symbolism, but these koi fish made me sure that I should probably pass on this experience.

Different perspective from the middle. 

Upon leaving the temple, you stop to receive a handful of a sweet, whole grain rice, offered to all who visit. For those feeling more hungry than that, there is an entire meal that is served to more than 40,000 people per day for free in the back part of the complex. All based on donations and volunteers, rich and poor are invited to come and eat. 

After leaving the zen of the Golden Temple, we made another stop in Amritsar at a site not too far away: Jallianwala Bagh. Sitting at the end of a long alleyway off the main street, this public garden was the site of a massacre in 1919. While India was a colony of Great Britain, the head general residing in the city feared an insurrection and as such, banned public gatherings. When he heard that fifteen to twenty thousand people had gathered in this garden, he ordered troops to go there and shoot (despite the majority of the crowd being women, children, and elderly). After ten minutes, nearly 1,000 people were dead. 

Several monuments have been erected in the garden to commemorate those who died that day, including an eternal flame and placards detailing the names of the dead.  

Some of the monuments were eery, showing where British soldiers stood or walls with bullet marks still visible. The well in the garden had a plaque listing the people who died jumping into the deep hole attempting to escape the gunfire (now referred to as Martyr's Well). I think the most disturbing was the topiary of the British soldier firing his weapon. 

For our final activity of the day, we needed to take a little drive outside the city. The destination? The Wagah border between India and Pakistan. Why were we putting ourselves in this location, you may ask? Because of the daily ceremony when the border between the two countries is officially closed. While this may not sound like it should be an "event", it is one of the most popular things to see in India. Old rivalries die hard and this is the opportunity for the two countries to show national pride for their own country and their contempt for the other. 

We really didn't know what to expect when we arrived. We pulled up to a long gate where hundreds of people were gathering. In the heat of the day, the crowd continued to grow and vendors wandered around selling everything from Indian flags to cold water as if we were at a football match. 

As the time nears for the gates to open, the press from the crowd is daunting. Imagine having thousands of people pressing to get through two small gates that fit no more than 2 people across. We were luckily towards the front and able to push through fairly quickly, but the threat of stampede didn't leave us quite yet. There was a long series of security checkpoints, and in an attempt to keep the masses calm, we were closed in by gates at several points along the way. Each time a security gate was opened, it was every man for himself to push forward and not be trampled. Eventually, men and women were split into two groups, but Dave and I both agreed it was best we didn't separate. However, this led to my first hand experience with sexual harassment in India as a hand snaked through the crowd giving me a very rough squeeze on the behind - minor in comparison to what could have been, but shocking nonetheless. There was no time to panic, only to keep alert and keep moving through the crowd and sticking by Dave's side. At this point though, I was questioning whether all this hassle was worth the ceremony we were about to see. 

But eventually, we got past all the security and the crowds thinned out significantly. We were able to walk at a calm pace and take in our surroundings. Far ahead of us sat a large gate, so we followed the crowd figuring this must be the place. 

Once at the gate, we were allowed to enter via a separate entrance for foreigners only. Apparently, the Indians take great pride when foreigners come to see this ceremony and support the Indian side. Therefore, we had our own VIP section to sit in along with all the other non-Indian visitors. 

Once we were through, we could finally take a breath and see what the deal was. To our right sat the majority of a large stadium that straddled either side of a long road. People were crammed to the hilt, women on one side, a mix of women and (mostly) men on the other. Ghandi and the Indian flag sat behind it all. 

To our left was a large gate. On the other side of the gate was a similar stadium, though not nearly as full. This was Pakistan. It was interesting to see (a) how much less colorful their side was (as most Pakistanis are muslim, they opt to wear simple tunics and robes rather than the bright colors of India) and (b) how much fewer people (particularly women) there were.

On the road in the middle of it all stood Indian military guards wearing colorful red hats. These are the border patrol agents and the main "performers" for the event. 

While the crowd is waiting for things to begin, giant Indian flags are brought down to the road. Women were encouraged to line up, grab one, and run it down the road, waving the flag behind them. The crowd cheers as they go.

After a while, Bollywood music starts blaring over the loud speakers, and a full-on dance party begins in the middle of the street (again, women only). 

While Dave couldn't join the crowd, it didn't stop the dancing in his seat. 

On the other side of the gate, the Pakistani festivities looked...well...less fun. Men with Pakistani flags danced around in the center, but that was about it. Womp womp. 

Eventually, the ceremony begins with a long, loud yell over a microphone. Two female soldiers march out of the headquarters and straight up to the gate.

This is followed by another long yell as 5 male soldiers march out and line up along the street in front of the crowd. As they march, they wave their arms emphatically and have an incredibly overdramatic way of walking authortatively.

Then things get a bit confusing, but the basic gist is that each soldier, upon hearing the same long, calling wail, very dramatically marches up to the gate, kicks his leg high up into the air, and finds some way to...dis the Pakistanis. Whether it's cockily fixing the hat or giving a rude flick of the hand, one by one, they each took their turn. Eventually the gate is opened and they are face-to-face with their adversaries.

 

On the other side, the Pakistani soldiers have a similar ritual, though not as loud nor emphatic as the Indian side (though high-kicks are included). 

After about an hour of dissing, hollering, kicking and whooping, it is time for the border to be closed. This is signified by the bringing down of the flags, which conveniently for the show, criss-cross each other in their rigging. 

As they are lowered, the soldiers give each other dirty looks and appear to be racing as to who can get theirs down faster. 

The flag is then angrily (but respectfully) folded and brought back in for the night. 

A few more kicks and disses, and the gates are then closed. 

While this is a real border, the ceremony makes it look like things are treated lightly. In case you had this worry, you need only look beyond the stadium for the very serious looking wall that stretches out in the distance and to see the two very serious looking men with automatic weapons that conspicuously stand-by staring daggers at each other through the whole event. 

 The scene leaving was much less chaotic, and the signs that greet you remind you where you are. This was a really weird but interesting event that I was glad to have seen.

Amritsar ended up being my favorite city in India, and while the Wagah border ceremony was amazing, it was the peace and serenity of the Golden Temple that made this place amazing.