Basilique du Sacre Couer

When: Paris, France
Where: January 12, 2013
With: Me!

Maybe it's cause 2013 was the far-away fabled year when my visa expired and now I'm freaking out that it's actually here, but I've got to kick things into high gear and take advantage while I can. So I booked myself on the Eurostar for a solo day trip into Paris. Because it would be a great waste to live so close to Paris and not take advantage of the 2-hour train ride. 

I couldn't think of anything better to do on my own day in Paris than to see the neighborhood where one of my favorite movies of all time was filmed, Amelie. The area is Montmartre and the iconic symbol here is the Basilique du Sacre Couer. 

Following a series of military defeats and squalid living conditions, the French Catholics thought that building something for God would bring peace on their country. Started in 1875, it was only completed in 1914 at the start of World War I. 

It sits high on top of a hill in Montmartre, with long steps leading up to it. The steps are covered with aggressive men trying to sell jewelry, but if you keep your head down and keep walking, they'll leave you alone eventually. If you're not interested, there's a funicular to take you to the top along the left side. 

From the top, you get great views of Paris. 

After climbing to the top, it was time to enter the Basilica. It's free to get in, and has beautiful statues and mosaics throughout. (No photos, oh well). 

After that, I set off  to explore the rest of this hilltop neighborhood. It's so unique. Incredibly French in the sense that it still has windy, cobblestone streets lined with cafes, but extra artsy as several of the most famous French artists lived here. 

There is a large square in the middle by the church, filled with the stereotypical French artists: old men in berets, smoking cigarettes, covered in paint or charcoal. Whether selling their paintings or sketching your portrait, the Place du Tertre had them all.

After ordering myself a ham and cheese crepe successfully in French, I continued to amble through the streets, enjoying the artsy neighborhood.

Years ago, a wall sat between this neighborhood and the rest of Paris. Montmartre was a mining area, vineyards were everywhere and wine was sold tax-free. Nowadays only one  vineyard still exists, the Clos Montmartre Vineyard

Across from the vineyard sat a bar frequented by several artists back in the day, including Renoir and Picasso. The Au Lapin Agile Cabaret was named for the poster of a rabbit trying to escape a cooking pot. Poets used to gather here to perform works of all kinds. 

As I headed down the hill of the neighborhood, it was like a well-planned tour of the homes of all the famous French artists: Picasso's studio, Toulouse-Laurec's bay windows, and Van Gogh's rooftop terrace were just a few.

In addition to their homes was the inspirations for their works. This cafe, the Moulin de la Galette, inspired the painting Bal du Moulin de la Galette by Renoir. Sundays were a common time for the working-class to gather here to drink and eat galettes, which were like crepes. The painting is famous both for the way it captures light and the way the local French enjoyed their Sunday afternoons.

To end my walking tour of Montmartre, I made two more "movie" inspired stops. The first was at the Cafe des Deux Moulins, where Amelie was shot. I couldn't believe it was a real place.

The second stop was at the Moulin Rouge. A bit seedier than the movie, with no Ewan MacGregor or giant elephant, but fun to see nonetheless.

This neighborhood easily became my favorite in Paris and I had such a great time here exploring. Excellent start to my Paris day trip.