Where: Masada, Israel
When: September 15, 2012
With: Dave, Dad and coworkers
Hours before the sun rose, the seven us were piled into a car and driving south from Jerusalem. The night was pitch black and as we left the lights of the city, the only thing we could see out the window was stars. After a little over an hour, the car came to park in a small lot in the middle of nowhere. Opening the door, we were hit with air that was thick and humid, even at 5am. Everything was still and quiet as turned into the darkness to begin a hike. What was the reason for all of this madness? To climb Masada, an ancient Jewish stronghold on top of an 1800 ft mountain.
There are a few good reasons to climb Masada before the sun rises. First, it's part of the experience to watch the sun rise from the top. Second, it is hot as hell in the dark and the chances of you wilting and falling down the side of the mountain increase dramatically in direct sunlight. And I think the third reason is because if you could see the trail before you start climbing, you might chicken out and opt to take the motorised trolley car up instead.
It was dead silent as we climbed. The only sound in the steamy air was the crunch of our shoes on the gravel as we climbed. Looking out behind us, the first glimpse of light was just beginning to show over the mountains of Jordan beyond. This was also our first glimpse of the Dead Sea, sitting between the two countries.
About 45 minutes later, we reached the top. We found a seat on the edge of a wall, and waited. The rest was good (and necessary), and it was so peaceful to sit in the quiet darkness waiting for that instant when the sun peeked over the mountains.
It's funny how you wait and wait for the sun to come up, and then just as you see the first sliver, it's up and out so fast and sunrise is over.
At this point, we were able to break our gaze and actually look at what was around us. Glowing in the early morning light was a series of old stone buildings sitting as they did over 2,000 years ago.
The walls and buildings that cover Masada were originally built by Herod the Great in 37BC to serve as a Roman fortification and possible refuge in case he was attacked. There are black lines along all the walls and buildings to show how much remains from the original construction.
Touring around the various structures was just another example of how resourceful the Romans could be, especially on top of this mountain in the middle of the desert. Pigeon coops to house their messengers, mosaic floors for décor and even lockers to keep clothes dry while swimming in one of their several pools.
While this site is noted for its preservation of its Roman ruins, the real reason people come here is for what happened in 72AD. Several Jewish people had fled from Jerusalem and overtook the limited Roman garrison stationed here to hide out and seek shelter from the Romans. Now, as history tells us, the Romans don't like people rebelling against them. So they sent one of their elite garrisons, comprised of thousands of Roman soldiers, to take care of this little problem. The soldiers set up camps positioned all around the foot of the mountain while they plotted their attack. The walls of these camps survive and give you an idea of what they would have looked like to the Jewish refugees above.
The Romans decided that the path up the front of the mountain was too treacherous (the very path we climbed that morning, great). So they got to work building a giant dirt ramp up the side of the mountain. After three months of construction, the ramp was complete and the Romans were wheeling a giant battering ram right up to the outer walls on top of the mountain to attack the Jews. The ramp still stands today.
However, when they got there, everything was eerily silent. As they wandered around, they soon made the grisly discovery that all 960 Jewish inhabitants had been killed in a mass suicide. Shortly thereafter, two women and five children were found hiding in one of the cisterns. They recounted that the Jews preferred to choose their own way out rather than be taken by the Romans to be killed, or worse, made into slaves. They even burned their storehouses to prove to the Romans that it was not lack of supplies that drove them to this decision. It is believed that the patriarch of each household killed his own family, and then the remaining men drew straws to kill each other until the last one was left standing and killed himself.
Standing on top of this mountain, in the very place where all this occurred, was a really surreal moment. To think about the desperation and pride that drove those people to take such drastic actions was a really humbling thought.
We continued our circle around the top of the mountain to see the carvings down the side of the mountain that originally served as Herod's palace on the mountain. Talk about a room with a balcony.
If we had been able to see anything this morning, this would have been our view. It was better to start this hike in the dark.
When: September 15, 2012
With: Dave, Dad and coworkers
Hours before the sun rose, the seven us were piled into a car and driving south from Jerusalem. The night was pitch black and as we left the lights of the city, the only thing we could see out the window was stars. After a little over an hour, the car came to park in a small lot in the middle of nowhere. Opening the door, we were hit with air that was thick and humid, even at 5am. Everything was still and quiet as turned into the darkness to begin a hike. What was the reason for all of this madness? To climb Masada, an ancient Jewish stronghold on top of an 1800 ft mountain.
There are a few good reasons to climb Masada before the sun rises. First, it's part of the experience to watch the sun rise from the top. Second, it is hot as hell in the dark and the chances of you wilting and falling down the side of the mountain increase dramatically in direct sunlight. And I think the third reason is because if you could see the trail before you start climbing, you might chicken out and opt to take the motorised trolley car up instead.
It was dead silent as we climbed. The only sound in the steamy air was the crunch of our shoes on the gravel as we climbed. Looking out behind us, the first glimpse of light was just beginning to show over the mountains of Jordan beyond. This was also our first glimpse of the Dead Sea, sitting between the two countries.
About 45 minutes later, we reached the top. We found a seat on the edge of a wall, and waited. The rest was good (and necessary), and it was so peaceful to sit in the quiet darkness waiting for that instant when the sun peeked over the mountains.
It's funny how you wait and wait for the sun to come up, and then just as you see the first sliver, it's up and out so fast and sunrise is over.
At this point, we were able to break our gaze and actually look at what was around us. Glowing in the early morning light was a series of old stone buildings sitting as they did over 2,000 years ago.
The walls and buildings that cover Masada were originally built by Herod the Great in 37BC to serve as a Roman fortification and possible refuge in case he was attacked. There are black lines along all the walls and buildings to show how much remains from the original construction.
Touring around the various structures was just another example of how resourceful the Romans could be, especially on top of this mountain in the middle of the desert. Pigeon coops to house their messengers, mosaic floors for décor and even lockers to keep clothes dry while swimming in one of their several pools.
I think my favorite was the cistern. This hovel was carved out of stone and held the fort's supply of water. Water collection pools were set up all along the edge of the mountain to capture the occasional rain and flood waters, and then donkeys carried the water up to the mountaintop to be stored in here.
Talk about a swimming pool with a view.
They even had a waiting room. Add a couple of magazines and it would look the same as a waiting room today.
While this site is noted for its preservation of its Roman ruins, the real reason people come here is for what happened in 72AD. Several Jewish people had fled from Jerusalem and overtook the limited Roman garrison stationed here to hide out and seek shelter from the Romans. Now, as history tells us, the Romans don't like people rebelling against them. So they sent one of their elite garrisons, comprised of thousands of Roman soldiers, to take care of this little problem. The soldiers set up camps positioned all around the foot of the mountain while they plotted their attack. The walls of these camps survive and give you an idea of what they would have looked like to the Jewish refugees above.
This is the point of entry, where the walls were demolished by the battering ram. Once they broke through the outer wall, the Romans soon learned that a second wall had been built just behind it. While it slowed their progress a bit, they were still able to take them down and storm the mountaintop within a day.
However, when they got there, everything was eerily silent. As they wandered around, they soon made the grisly discovery that all 960 Jewish inhabitants had been killed in a mass suicide. Shortly thereafter, two women and five children were found hiding in one of the cisterns. They recounted that the Jews preferred to choose their own way out rather than be taken by the Romans to be killed, or worse, made into slaves. They even burned their storehouses to prove to the Romans that it was not lack of supplies that drove them to this decision. It is believed that the patriarch of each household killed his own family, and then the remaining men drew straws to kill each other until the last one was left standing and killed himself.
Standing on top of this mountain, in the very place where all this occurred, was a really surreal moment. To think about the desperation and pride that drove those people to take such drastic actions was a really humbling thought.
We continued our circle around the top of the mountain to see the carvings down the side of the mountain that originally served as Herod's palace on the mountain. Talk about a room with a balcony.
On top of Masada
The view of the Dead Sea in the distance
Finally, what Roman ruins would be complete without a bath house? Those Romans loved their spas.
At this point, the sun was beating down on us and it was time to start heading back down the path. While going down was much easier than up, it was so, so hot.
If we had been able to see anything this morning, this would have been our view. It was better to start this hike in the dark.
This was an absolutely amazing place. The entire experience was incredible, from the hike to the ruins to the story.
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