Where: Bethlehem, Palestinian Territories
When: September 16, 2012
With: Dave, Dad and coworkers
The most anxious part of our trip (aside from being caught in the Arab Quarter during an anti-American protest) was definitely our drive into Palestine. We had to leave our lovely tour guide of the past 2 days behind because as an Israeli, he wasn't allowed to come with us. The main reason for our visit was Bethlehem, which, while only being 8 miles away, sits behind great walls and scary check points that separate Israel from Palestine.
We were picked up from our hotel in a rather beat up looking van, curtains drawn around the windows, which did nothing to ease our tension driving into the city. Getting in was fairly easy (though we all knew getting out would be the tougher part). Once inside, the change in scenery was instantaneous. Everything was completely run down compared to Jerusalem. The walls separating the two countries loomed over us, covered in graffiti and surrounded by dilapidated buildings and cars. Upon seeing the walls for the first time, our driver stopped and said we could get out and take photos (to which I responded "do we have to?").
At this point, it was time to descend into the shepherd's caves. Down inside, it was like a jungle gym of hidden hovels, tunnels, and crawl spaces. Our guide explained that shepherd's didn't stay anywhere too long (hence these low maintenance shelters). As a result, they would have been like the gossip magazine of the day, spreading stories and tales around the lands from town to town as they moved with their flocks. That is why they were the perfect people to get first hand knowledge of the little baby that was born just a short distance away those 2,000 years ago.
The next stop was at the Milk Grotto. This is where Joseph and Mary stayed with their newborn baby to while they were escaping to Egypt to escape the Massacre of the Innocents. That was when King Herod the Great heard that the King of the Jews had been born in Bethlehem, and ordered that all male babies under the age of 2 were to be slaughtered. While staying here, Mary was nursing Jesus, and her milk dropped onto the stone floor. The claims are that the stone turned white shortly thereafter.
The main attraction in Bethlehem is the place where it all started: the spot where Jesus was born. The church built to commemorate this event is now the oldest, continually running church in the world. From the outside, it looks fairly bland and worn down.
The inside of this church was just as manic as the chapel with Jesus' tomb - long lines and frantic worshippers.
The decoration inside was all over the place. Some parts were very simple, some parts you could see the Byzantine influence, and all around, you could see the faint remains of old mosaics, giving the church a unique and eclectic feel.
At the back of the church, behind the altar, is a small doorway leading down to a small room. This is the cave where Jesus was supposedly born. Thank goodness for our tour guide who knew how to shmooze the security guards and get us backstage passes to this site without waiting in the long and crazy line.
While we skipped the line, there was no avoiding all those fervored believers while down in this small cave. They were going to see the spot Jesus was born if it was the last thing they did.
The spot where he was actually born is marked by a star (a rather cheesy one, if I do say so myself). It was a little alcove where people were kneeling inside to pray.
When: September 16, 2012
With: Dave, Dad and coworkers
The most anxious part of our trip (aside from being caught in the Arab Quarter during an anti-American protest) was definitely our drive into Palestine. We had to leave our lovely tour guide of the past 2 days behind because as an Israeli, he wasn't allowed to come with us. The main reason for our visit was Bethlehem, which, while only being 8 miles away, sits behind great walls and scary check points that separate Israel from Palestine.
We were picked up from our hotel in a rather beat up looking van, curtains drawn around the windows, which did nothing to ease our tension driving into the city. Getting in was fairly easy (though we all knew getting out would be the tougher part). Once inside, the change in scenery was instantaneous. Everything was completely run down compared to Jerusalem. The walls separating the two countries loomed over us, covered in graffiti and surrounded by dilapidated buildings and cars. Upon seeing the walls for the first time, our driver stopped and said we could get out and take photos (to which I responded "do we have to?").
We drove along the streets and stopped on a corner, when the door to our van opened and a man jumped in. There was a split second where I contemplated how best to fight for our lives, until he introduced ourselves as our guide for the day. What an entrance.
One of the main sites to see here is the Shepherd's Field. It contains the excavated caves where the shepherds used to stay in Bethlehem. Now, it is a beautiful, shaded site with churches and chapels all around it.
On the site that contains the shepherd's caves, you can still see the foundations of the original homes that sat here.
At this point, it was time to descend into the shepherd's caves. Down inside, it was like a jungle gym of hidden hovels, tunnels, and crawl spaces. Our guide explained that shepherd's didn't stay anywhere too long (hence these low maintenance shelters). As a result, they would have been like the gossip magazine of the day, spreading stories and tales around the lands from town to town as they moved with their flocks. That is why they were the perfect people to get first hand knowledge of the little baby that was born just a short distance away those 2,000 years ago.
As we emerged, we got a fitting sight of a shepherd with his flock.
From here, you have some nice views out over Palestine/Israel. Our guide explained that all the condos are on the Israeli side, sitting on the disputed territory where both sides claim to have ownership. On this quiet overlook with a gentle breeze blowing around us, he started to explain the conflict between the two countries from his perspective and the turmoil he has experienced. In the end, he just wants to have peace with Israel and the ability to freely spend a day on the beach in Tel Aviv with his family. He claims that the majority of Palestinians want the same, though when we asked what percent he considered the "majority", he estimated about 80%. The problem there is, what do you do about the 20% that DON'T want peace? A really sad reality for our very sweet guide.
The next stop was at the Milk Grotto. This is where Joseph and Mary stayed with their newborn baby to while they were escaping to Egypt to escape the Massacre of the Innocents. That was when King Herod the Great heard that the King of the Jews had been born in Bethlehem, and ordered that all male babies under the age of 2 were to be slaughtered. While staying here, Mary was nursing Jesus, and her milk dropped onto the stone floor. The claims are that the stone turned white shortly thereafter.
To commemorate the importance of this site, a church has been built and is attended to by a group of nuns. At all times, there is one nun kneeling in prayer in front of an altar. Her shift will last for three hours at a time. We happened to catch a nun pass-off.
Out back was a lovely cemetery overlooking the surrounding hills.
Appropriately titled.
We then walked to Manger Square. On one side is a mosque, on the other is a church, and in the middle is a peace center.
It was sometimes easy to forget that you were technically in a whole new country.
The main attraction in Bethlehem is the place where it all started: the spot where Jesus was born. The church built to commemorate this event is now the oldest, continually running church in the world. From the outside, it looks fairly bland and worn down.
A teeny door marked the entrance to this giant building.
When you first enter, you find yourself in a small wooden room. This is where you were meant to stay if you were not a Christian back in the day and not pious enough to walk into the main church. We all decided we felt comfortable passing through though.
The original Byzantine flooring still exists under these wooden doors in the floor.
The inside of this church was just as manic as the chapel with Jesus' tomb - long lines and frantic worshippers.
The decoration inside was all over the place. Some parts were very simple, some parts you could see the Byzantine influence, and all around, you could see the faint remains of old mosaics, giving the church a unique and eclectic feel.
At the back of the church, behind the altar, is a small doorway leading down to a small room. This is the cave where Jesus was supposedly born. Thank goodness for our tour guide who knew how to shmooze the security guards and get us backstage passes to this site without waiting in the long and crazy line.
While we skipped the line, there was no avoiding all those fervored believers while down in this small cave. They were going to see the spot Jesus was born if it was the last thing they did.
The spot where he was actually born is marked by a star (a rather cheesy one, if I do say so myself). It was a little alcove where people were kneeling inside to pray.
A separate chapel held the place where the manger was meant to sit.
It was cool to see, but hard to enjoy while being jostled about by all the tourists. Once we were done, it was time to head out of the country. Our tour guide gave us a lovely goodbye, and we braced ourselves for the final challenge: making it back into Israel.
As we waited to get through the checkpoint, I took my time to observe the walls around us. The graffiti that was scattered about it was for the most part, really heartwarming. My personal favorite was "Make hummus, not war".
In the end, we made it out ok and survived our trip to Palestine. A really fascinating day, from both the historical aspect and the current day situation.
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