Where: Coimbra, Portugal
When: August 20-21, 2012
With: Dave
The first city we had the pleasure of driving through with our new friend, the rental car, was Coimbra. I say pleasure sarcastically as our GPS had no idea where our hotel was, people were honking and I wasn't driving, and thus felt an utter lack of control. It was a tense moment entering this city, but thankfully, Dave and I (and our relationship) made it in one piece in the end.
Coimbra is like the Oxford of Portugal. It is home to the country's oldest university, Coimbra University, founded in 1290. That makes Coimbra the oldest college town in Portugal and explains why it was practically empty in the dead of August.
The area we saw as we drove up towards the city was...not the most inviting. However, once we crossed the bridge and saw the campus on top of the hill, we were glad we made the decision to come here because it was beautiful.
We settled into our lovely, old hotel on the river, and set out into the town for dinner. The restaurant we chose was amazing, Restaurante Ze Manuel. It was just a small doorway on a tiny alleyway, nowhere near the city center, that looked like someone's front door. But its reputation was grander than the exterior because before the doors even opened at 7:30, there was already a long line forming. We were third in line and when we got inside, we were glad for that or it might have been a long time before we got to eat.
The place had about 10 ten tables, all crammed into a room that also contained the kitchen. The walls are covered with notes written by faithful patrons and happy customers. The happy and enthusiastic waiter/owner spoke just enough English to understand us, but remain totally authentic. The signature dish was called ossos, or "bones". It was literally a pile of pork bones covered in the most tender and amazing meat ever. That coupled with a clay jug of house wine, and we were in heaven. It may have been Dave's favourite meal on the entire trip.
After I practically had to roll Dave out the door of the restaurant, we headed into the main part of the town. The streets of Coimbra were hilly, windy and covered in mosaic tiles.
The guys that played his music (one on Portuguese guitar, one on regular guitar, and one on everything else) were having such a good time.
The walk to the university didn't have many sites to stop in except for the Church of Santa Cruz. This was the most enthusiastically religious church I have ever set foot in. I felt awkward taking photos. People were praying and rocking and muttering so feverishly, I felt like a heathen walking around and looking at the place. The church itself was pretty, but not overly grand or ornate, but the people inside made it feel like the most religious I've ever been in.
Continuing along towards the university, we passed a former monastery, just sitting in the middle of the city, that now serves as a public park.
Next, we took a small detour into this giant farmers market. Local ladies come here to sell food of every kind while their husbands continue to work the fields.
Finally, we arrived at the gateway to the university: a giant elevator up a hill. It cost a couple euro, and at first, we thought it was just a normal elevator ride. But when the elevator doors opened, a second elevator awaited us, all glass and riding up on a slanted incline with views of the city all around us. A unique way to reach the top.
Once we exited the elevator, we were just about on campus. The first sign of university life was a frat house. It was covered in graffiti on the outside, and its front yard had a collection of items that were stolen as pranks. The building was probably hundreds of years older than any frat house in America, yet the look and feel was exactly the same.
The other fascinating part of the gatekeeper's job is tending to the bats that live in the library. Yes, bats. They are the best form of protection from bugs that the books could possibly have. At night, they fly free through the library, snatching up any book hungry insects that may stumble into building.
The next stop is the focal point of the quad, the Grand Hall. Inside are large rooms where exams are taken, students are inducted, and headmasters are instated.
When: August 20-21, 2012
With: Dave
The first city we had the pleasure of driving through with our new friend, the rental car, was Coimbra. I say pleasure sarcastically as our GPS had no idea where our hotel was, people were honking and I wasn't driving, and thus felt an utter lack of control. It was a tense moment entering this city, but thankfully, Dave and I (and our relationship) made it in one piece in the end.
Coimbra is like the Oxford of Portugal. It is home to the country's oldest university, Coimbra University, founded in 1290. That makes Coimbra the oldest college town in Portugal and explains why it was practically empty in the dead of August.
The area we saw as we drove up towards the city was...not the most inviting. However, once we crossed the bridge and saw the campus on top of the hill, we were glad we made the decision to come here because it was beautiful.
We settled into our lovely, old hotel on the river, and set out into the town for dinner. The restaurant we chose was amazing, Restaurante Ze Manuel. It was just a small doorway on a tiny alleyway, nowhere near the city center, that looked like someone's front door. But its reputation was grander than the exterior because before the doors even opened at 7:30, there was already a long line forming. We were third in line and when we got inside, we were glad for that or it might have been a long time before we got to eat.
The place had about 10 ten tables, all crammed into a room that also contained the kitchen. The walls are covered with notes written by faithful patrons and happy customers. The happy and enthusiastic waiter/owner spoke just enough English to understand us, but remain totally authentic. The signature dish was called ossos, or "bones". It was literally a pile of pork bones covered in the most tender and amazing meat ever. That coupled with a clay jug of house wine, and we were in heaven. It may have been Dave's favourite meal on the entire trip.
After I practically had to roll Dave out the door of the restaurant, we headed into the main part of the town. The streets of Coimbra were hilly, windy and covered in mosaic tiles.
The plan for the evening was to enjoy some more of Portugal's signature music, fado. In Coimbra, the fado music is traditional sung by men, a tradition stemming from the all-male students that historically attended Coimbra University. We went to the most famous fado club in Coimbra, aCapella. It was a tiny little place, seating no more than 40 people and had a tiny stage that barely fit the band. The man who sang had the most amazing voice, and he sang so effortlessly, his hands casually stuffed in his pockets the entire time.
The guys that played his music (one on Portuguese guitar, one on regular guitar, and one on everything else) were having such a good time.
Towards the end of the show, the lead singer donned the traditional black cape of the Coimbra University students.
The next morning, we got up early to explore the university and more of the town. But first, breakfast. We stopped at a small cafe in the town square by the river and ordered two of Coimbra's speciality pastries. The one on the left is called pastel de Santa Clara and is made with almonds and marmalade. The one on the right is called pastel de Tentugal and is a flaky puff pastry with an egg filling and powdered sugar. Both were amazing.
The walk to the university didn't have many sites to stop in except for the Church of Santa Cruz. This was the most enthusiastically religious church I have ever set foot in. I felt awkward taking photos. People were praying and rocking and muttering so feverishly, I felt like a heathen walking around and looking at the place. The church itself was pretty, but not overly grand or ornate, but the people inside made it feel like the most religious I've ever been in.
Continuing along towards the university, we passed a former monastery, just sitting in the middle of the city, that now serves as a public park.
Next, we took a small detour into this giant farmers market. Local ladies come here to sell food of every kind while their husbands continue to work the fields.
Finally, we arrived at the gateway to the university: a giant elevator up a hill. It cost a couple euro, and at first, we thought it was just a normal elevator ride. But when the elevator doors opened, a second elevator awaited us, all glass and riding up on a slanted incline with views of the city all around us. A unique way to reach the top.
Once we exited the elevator, we were just about on campus. The first sign of university life was a frat house. It was covered in graffiti on the outside, and its front yard had a collection of items that were stolen as pranks. The building was probably hundreds of years older than any frat house in America, yet the look and feel was exactly the same.
We walked along a bit further until we reached the gates of the university. As I said earlier, the trademark of the students attending the university is their long black capes. Apparently, when school is in session, black capes swarm the area.
The main quad of Coimbra Univeristy. It had one crazy view. Nearly every major person in Portuguese history since the 1300s attended this school.
The first building we visited on campus was King John's Library. It contains 30,000 books that date from the 18th century. A library "gatekeeper" mans the giant doorway to ensure the door stays closed and humidity stays out to protect the old books. When you approach, you have to ring a giant doorbell, and wait until he deems it's time to let you in.
The next stop is the focal point of the quad, the Grand Hall. Inside are large rooms where exams are taken, students are inducted, and headmasters are instated.
From the top of the Grand Hall are some incredible views of the city below.
After seeing those buildings, we decided that we'd had enough education for our vacation. We headed back down the hills through the windy streets toward the town center for some lunch a final farewell to Coimbra.
No comments:
Post a Comment