356. Fes el Bali

Where: Fes, Morocco
When: March 27 - 29, 2014
With: Rachel

Our first full day in Morocco had already been quite activity-packed after setting off from Casablanca to see Rabat and Meknes (see here). However, we weren't even close to done as the sun began to set over the lush green valley we traveled through on our way to Fes. Before we reached that ancient city, we had to make one more stop at an even more ancient city: Volubilis.

Founded by the Phoenicians in the 3rd century BC, Volubilis flourished under Roman rule in the 1st century AD. Over the years, the rulers and religions may have changed, but the city remained in tact. So much so that it is now considered one of the best preserved Roman cities in the world. 

At first, it mostly looked like a pile of columns and rubble, albeit a beautiful one.

But as we wandered the ruins, shapes began to take form. Streets made themselves known, as did the outlines of structures and foundations of homes.

In fact, Volubilis has been so well preserved, the elaborate mosaic tile floors of the homes are still incredibly intact, both in structure and vibrancy of color. It was really cool that this was someone's living room or foyer almost 2,000 years ago. 

Some of the more prominent structures of the original city also remain very well-preserved. Standing tall and proud, these columns were part of the city's temple. 

The intricate carvings and designs have stood the test of 2,000 years and remain beautifully ornate.

This is the Arch of the Caracalla. This marked where the old and "new" city met. 

This is the city's basilica. While it did not remain standing all these years, the original stones have been used to reconstruct parts of its facade to show what it would have originally looked like. 

 Hanging out in the ruins.

Watching the sun set over this scene was quite amazing. It was the perfect end to our jampacked day.

We arrived after dark in Fes, and since it didn't make sense to head off into the city at that point, we had an early dinner and went to bed. 

That meant that the next morning, we were up early for some serious Fes exploration. The main attraction of Fes is its medinas, or markets. Ironically, that means beautiful places like this are NOT the main attraction of the city. Just another "modern" building. 

Now this looks more like what we were expecting. Fes actually has two medinas, and we were entering the older of the two, Fes El Bali. Built in the 800s, it doesn't feel like much has changed in the last 1200 years. The medina is a maze of tight alleyways, shops, and homes, stacked all on top of each other and piled high to the sky. Once you enter, it feels likes you've been sucked into a completely different and ancient world. 

Things in the medina are, in a word, chaotic. Shopkeepers yelling in English, French and Arabic, selling everything from scarves to fruit to live chickens and dead cow carcasses. Donkeys clop along the ancient alleyways, barely cognizant of their master's shouts as they take the goods on their backs along a well-trodden path. 

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Additionally, it is HUGE. In fact, Fes el Bali makes up the world's largest car-free urban area. This just adds to its ability to essentially function as a time machine upon entering. It would be nearly impossible to navigate the 9,500 streets and 180 miles of alleyways without a local or a guide. I mean, look at this place. Thankfully, inside the medina, we met a local guide who was able to navigate the streets for us like a pro. 

The first stop we made was in the Medersa Bou Inania. It was hidden among in the alleyways, but once inside, surprisingly expansive. This madrasa, a type of educational institute, was built in the 1350s and is considered one of the best examples of Marinid architecture. (The Marinids ruled Morocco from the 13th to the 15th century). All over the walls were intricate carvings of wood and stonework. It was beautiful.

While this was a beautiful stop, the real purpose of this medina is the shopping it provides. And there are a lot of speciality crafts for which the Moroccans are world famous. Luckily, our guide was about to show them all to us. 

 Our first stop was to the leather quarter where the famous Fes leather tanneries are. Some have been there for almost 1,000 years. Our guide took us into a shop and the shopkeeper took us up a few flights of stairs and out onto his back balcony. From here, we got an incredible sight. In a startlingly large square sat vats upon vats of giant earthenware pots, each filled almost to the brim with different colored dyes. Locals stood knee deep in the various vats while hides of leather were flung about amidst shouts and orders. The balconies of other tanneries surrounded the square, presumably so that the leather merchants can keep an eye on their wares. It was completely wild.

The techniques used by the workers for both tanning and dying the leather have been the same for centuries.  It was also so surprising that a space this large exists among the claustrophobic streets surrounding it.

While watching the workers bust their butts below, the shopkeepers explain the process end to end. One interesting factoid is that lots of fun ingredients are used to tan and dye leather, including, but not limited to, pigeon poop and cow urine. The smell can be rather...nauseating...but after years in business, the shopkeepers know how to keep a customer happy. While you hang out on the balcony, they provide you with sprigs of mint to hold under your nose in case the smell from the square below becomes too intense. 

After hearing about the tanning and dye process, I appreciated the final product so much more. While wandering about the store, I was amazed by all the vibrant colors, made with natural materials and the absence of machines. The shops sell everything, from shoes to jackets to handbags. 

I was surprised by one other thing from the view out of the leather shop. Despite all the ancient rituals and techniques below, I noticed that satellite TV is definitely in full force in Morocco. 

Up next, scarves. Obviously, scarves and shawls are a huge part of the Moroccan culture, so it makes sense that a large part of the market caters to this craft. Upon entering one of many possible shops, the owners knew exactly how to present their wares in an entertaining way. As if the array of colors all around didn't do enough of the talking...

First, they show you the craftsmanship that goes into hand making each scarf on an old fashioned loom. The guy making this scarf worked impossibly fast as he used the wooden contraption, even smiling for the photo as his hands kept moving. 

After the talk, it's time to start demonstrating all the ways the scarves can be worn. From shawls to hijabs to sand masks, these things are multi-purpose for sure. Thank you, Rachel, for modelling.

So definitely walked away with a couple of new scarves...Anyway, it was then time for lunch, and the souk definitely did not disappoint. Tucked away in an alleyway, we entered an unassuming door into a beautiful open courtyard, filled with colorful pillows and sunshine. I still don't know if this was someone's home or a formal restaurant, but it felt cozy either way. 

The most exciting part of this meal was getting to experience a true Moroccan delicacy called pastilla. It definitely ended up being my favorite of the trip. It is basically shredded meat cooked with spices and layered in a sort of phyllo dough, cooked to be crispy and then covered in cinnamon, almonds and powdered sugar. While traditionally pigeon meat is used, it will more regularly be made with chicken. This particular combo of sweet and savory may not seem natural, but is incredible.   

After lunch, we left the chaos of the souk to head to a couple of shops outside the city. Our first stop was at a shop that made earthenware pots, specifically tagines. These are used in traditional Moroccan meals as a container in which to to cook meat and vegetables, as well as serve them.

After being left in the sun to dry, they will be painted, glazed and thrown in the kiln for firing. 

Inside the shop, tagines of all different sizes and colors could be found, as well as plates and other ceramic pieces. 

Next up, another local craft iconic of Morocco: stonework. All of those ornate facades on buildings are made up of a mosaic of tiles, created in shops like these. 

These men spend a back-breaking number of hours hunched over, either carving the stones with ridiculous precision or laying the tiles out in these gorgeous patterns. They kindly let Rachel try her hand at laying some stones.

The end results are mirrors, fountains, walls...you name it, you could buy it. 

Looking down on the city below, marvelling at the many unique trades that have become iconic to this country. 

That night back at the hotel, we appreciated the handiwork that went into making this room service order. 

Fes was such a cool city. I'm definitely glad I had a local to show me the ropes, or else I might still be there, perhaps tying scarves or knee deep in purple dye. The city just felt like the essence of all I thought Morocco would be. This left me wondering what was to come on the rest of our trip - we still had five days to go!